Hi guys i found in the manual for the Canon XF300 (i actually have one) that the minimum focus distance is 1m and 20mm (macro) but i have still not found the key to do that. Can someone please confirm? i need to shoot some macros but cant find the way.
The minimum focus distance is on the len's widest. I'm pretty certain there is no actual macro feature. Just go wide and see how close you yet. It's actually quite an impressive lens. You can zoom in but will have to gradually go further away. I think there may be a happy medium suited to your 'macro' shot. It's not a true macro lens though. I'm keen to experiment with close-up filters and see how they do. Look them up and see if they'll work for you.
Hi Nick, i found the right way just as you said, its a very nice lens i feel it far superior from any other similar camcorders.
The other day i was shooting at the moon and i found that when in special recording as a time lapse way, it is not possible to use auto iris feature, i had to do manual and i didnt like manual correcting, does not look good.
Im unsure about macro filters and what do they do, please let me know if you have any experience with it
Ok, good you sorted that. The lens is actually amazing and regarded as one of (if not THE) best lenses canon have ever made.
Close-up filters are like a regular filter you put on the end of the lens, but are thicker and actually like an extra lens. They just give you more magnification. I've used them on stills cameras and good good results. Attached to a 300m lens you can almost use full zoom and still be very close to your subject. This is useful if you have an option for a normal (105mm) macro lens but cant get too close to the subject for either light reasons of the subject getting too scared and running off (animals). I have no idea if they'll actually work on video. Can't see why not though.
The time-lapse question is a whole new subject. So...
A time-lapse in ALL circumstances should be shot on manual iris. There are a number of reasons for this:
1) Your time-lapse should be used to show time passing, and that often means changing light. If you are trying to combat that changing light by auto OR manually adjusting the iris, it'll just look weird, and almost impossible to match between frames.
2) If you do use auto-iris, it's incredibly accurate, but not accurate enough to give you the same results between frames.
3) If the light is changing, for example in a sunrise, by countering increasing light using your iris you will perhaps manage to keep the exposure looking roughly the same, but the way the light changes other things that you can't control will make the picture look very strange (like DOF, shadows, highlights/lowlights, colour etc).
4) If you are shooting in a studio, where you have 100% control of the light and have it fixed, then still keep it on manual-iris as the auto-iris will try to adjust and will make minor adjustments, making each frame slightly different and will give you a strange flicker effect.
Time-lapses, are actually very difficult to get perfect with changing light. You have to just predict where the F-stop (iris) is going to be best at the most pivotal part of what's happening (i.e the sun coming over the horizon) and just leave it. Don't, under and circumstances, touch the iris during a time-lapse.
Hope I helped in some way.
It seems like your last post is troubled or something, i just couldn't reply to it.
I wanted to use auto iris because the night was very cloudy and the exposure went from extreme to extreme so i couldn't get proper control of it. I guess it is a trade off and its not possible to go from clear sky to complete cloud.