EEFX vs. Rosco Green Chroma Paint
We have a room with a green screen from EEFX.com hanging on the wall. It is not long enough to drape over the floor enough for an effective talent distance from the screen.
We were going to get another screen but it appears as if we may have found a better option, especially since we need this by Tuesday and EEFX.com has a 4-7 day mfg. time for the screen. The option is to paint the wall with green chroma paint and use the existing screen and drape over the floor and curve up to meet the paint.
Now, if we order some Rosco paint from B&H it will be here quickly (we're in Central Jersey). If we order from EEFX.com it will come from the pacific coast and we would need to pay an extra $90 to have it shipped here by Friday for painting on the weekend.
The big question is. EEFX.com claims that there paint is made to match their screens. Is their a big difference between the Rosco and EEFX.com Green Chroma Paint? Are we better off paying the extra shipping to get the EEFX.com paint to match our exisiting screen?
I use the super sluggish non-gpu, yet effective, 1 core Primatte Keyer Pro 4 plugin for Final Cut.
Keying is already difficult enough and I don't want to complicate things much more by getting some paint that is way off from the screen.
Any feedback appreciated!
There will be those in here that disagree with me (which is fine)... but after using Roscoe paint for more years that I care to count, I've come to one conclusion.
Paint is paint.
I am willing to bet the farm that if you take your backdrop to the paint department at Lowes or Home Depot (or more ideally, to a real stand-alone paint store, i.e., a Sherwin Williams store) and say "match this," and get a good quality flat paint... that you will have results every bit as good as spending big bucks to have the "real" chroma paint shipped in.
Fantastic Plastic Entertainment, Inc.
I checked out your website (very nice studio btw) and it appears you are pretty credible and I am happily/confidently going to take your advice!
I like it most because they can match the screen perfectly!
There is a Benjamin Moore paint store nearby.
Sometimes I read these posts and the ensuing dialogue and I have to just sake my head ... then hold myself back from responding.
In this case I will "hold my tongue" but offer a word of advice.
Although "paint is paint", paint is NOT fabric. Fabric receives and relects light VERRRYYYY differently from paint. Not only that, the various fabrics available for greenscreen work receive and reflect light very differently. That EEFX foam fabric really absorbs light while a standard cotton duck fabric doesn't. Plus it reflects light differently. If you are going to mix your surfaces be very careful with your lighting, so that you "seamlessly" blend the line between your fabric and your paint.
Conventional wisdom also indicates that you should use your fabric as a backdrop and paint your floor .... and props (That's the way we do all greenscreen work for ELMO's WORLD on SESAME STREET.)
By the way, considering you're in NJ, you could just as easily drive into NYC and buy the foam greenscreen fabric you need from ROSEBRAND.
That is good feedback. We'll see what Primatte Keyer Pro does to it. I am concerned about where it meets the fabric. Keying is just so much fun!
Do you think Rosebrand would match up with EEFX fabric pretty good?
Yes......Rosebrand may even sell the same product. If not take a sample to assure a match.
Is this the correct fabric from Rosebrand?
Will Rosebrand make pipe pockets?
We are moving our setup to a new location and I need to buy one continuous chroma cloth to run from the top of the wall to 10 feet out from the wall.
Sory for the late response. Your post "fell through the cracks" of my crazy life.
Commando cloth will certainly work....you may find it a bit heavy. There are nine different greenscreen materials for you to choose from. Look under "keying fabric" at the following link.
Check them all out ...then call ROSEBRAND for their advice. They may also be able to send you a swatch for your inspection and testing.
Once you make your choice, they will custom fabricate whatever size you need -- with whatever hanging methods you'd like. The norm is grommets and jute/burlap with ties at the top with a pipe pocket at the bottom.
First off "Paint is NOT Paint" Chroma paint is VERY special. absolutely no shine, a LOT of pigment (why it dries so slow) not Home Center counter is going to be able to come close. If they could the stuff wouldn't be 50-75$ it would be 25. I agree the stay with the fabric. There is a chance you could Double key the setup and pull both colors, but at what cost. As for matching, it took 6 gallons to cover the screen and floor at the studio i used to work at. (at the least) I could tell you stories of how ambitious new people would just paint the scyc wall and how our engineer would see 6 different color. Always Mix all of the paint together to achieve a match color. matching paint is hard enough, matching chroma paint to paint is even harder.
I agree Rosebrand is a great source for extra-wide chroma cloth. Our studio setup has a green-painted canvas backdrop and not enough floor coverage for some of the full-body shots I need.
I went to Ace hardware with a sample chip from the canvas and matched it in a flat latex. I also already had a $50 roll of white photographer's background paper, and I used the paint on this paper with a simple roller to cover the floor. Garbage mattes in post handle the scene to either side. Remember, you only really *need* an inch or so beyond the talent and the rest can be matted out in post, so you don't always need as much screen as you may think.
Where the paper meets the cloth, I just have the paper roll over the top of the joint, away from the camera, and I get a very uniform green and a clean key this way, lighting mostly with a handful of large Lowel Rifas. The paper has lasted thru six jobs but does get more damaged each time. I was happy if it lasted for two gigs for the price.
If I was doing this more often, I would apply the paint to 2 foot or 3-foot square cheap basic linoleum tiles, which I can lay out or pick up off the studio floor as needed, or the back of a sheet of vinyl floor covering, the side that takes the contact cement usually takes paint really well if you prime it with a white latex primer like Kilz brand primer first. Just be sure the flooring is the cheap flat vinyl and not the foam-padded stuff.
In fact, my number one suggestion is to make the whole chroma or white/gray limbo cove with just the vinyl flooring, because it is rugged and you can walk on it and not hurt it, yet it will still roll up if you need to make room for something else. (Well, it IS heavier than cloth or paper, but will last forever and is easy to clean and touch-up with spare paint left over).
The flooring is cheap because you won't care what ugly, poor-selling color or pattern is on the top side, so you can get end rolls and cut-offs and clearance sheets for pennies on the dollar at Home Depot or Menards or whatever, in various good widths. Sandwich one end between some 2x4's with screws and glue, hang that board from your grid or heavy light stands, let it curve down and bam, you've got a nice long cove in white or green with the "infinity" curve in it. The only downside I have with it is I can't do a corner cove with the 3-way seam yet, but maybe if I study some more origami and paper cutting patterns...:-) We used it with contact cement to surface some large double-size plywood flats for a set wall; it was the cheapest thing we could find in that size that was seamless, and it worked very well for the faux finish we put on it.
Anyway, for a flat one-direction cove, I think this can't be beat for ease of construction, price or effectiveness in a studio setting. On the road, where you need light weight, cloth or paper is better, OTOH wind isn't going to bother this vinyl until it's registering on the Fujiama scale...
AT 50 bucks or so a roll, photog's background paper in chroma green is practically disposable, and comes in enough length to tear away one damaged "set" and still have enough for one more full-length single-person shot, if you're careful not to waste it or crease it, and watch the stilleto heels walking on it.
I've keyed with everything from the "real" Rosco paint to carpeting to plastic picnic table runners from the dollar store, and had success with all of them, long as they were wrinkle-free and evenly lit. Modern keyers, even in Dv's poorer color space of 4:1:1, can handle almost anything now.
The even lighting is the most important thing, IMO.