Re: Greenish tint.

Remember that there are two very different ways to go when dealing with fluorescents with green spikes (as most do, with the exception of Kino Flos and perhaps a few, very few others.) Either you add green to all the other lights to match the green of the offending fluorescent, or you add minus-green (magenta) to the offending fluorescent(s) so it matches your other lights.

You are dealing with two color axises: magenta-green on one axis, and blue-red (or orange) on the other. Gels to correct for each axis come in strengths beginning with 1/8 through full (1/8, 1/4, 1/2, full.) The color differences between tungsten and daylight units are mainly along the blue-red axis. (Some HMIs can have or can develop some green spiking too.) Fluorescents can be "daylight" or "tungsten" balanced and also almost always have some green spiking. You need to pay attention to both the blue-red axis and the magenta-green axis.

In general, with the situation you described, I'd put 1/4 minus green on the "bad" fluorescents, shoot a test, and if there is still too much green, try 1/2. Etc.

Rick Wise
director of photography
and custom lighting design
Oakland, CA
http://www.RickWiseDP.com
http://www.linkedin.com/in/rwise
email: Rick@RickWiseDP.com